Annapurna, You'll Be the Death of Me

This will be a long post, but it will be informative. I’ll try to break it up so it can be easily used for instructive purposes as well as entertainment. Just scroll through and find the bits in bold  As always, thanks for reading!

Trekking the Annapurna Circuit in the Himalayas of Nepal was honestly one of the hardest feats I've accomplished. Each of the twelve days on its own wasn't so bad; and for most healthy individuals it isn't likely to be such a strenuous task, but old when old injuries came back to haunt me and my feet screamed in protest every morning when I shoved them into my runners, the circuit became hell for me. OK, maybe “hell” is a bit of an overstatement, but it was really difficult for me at times.

Beautiful, yes, but difficult too.

I only came to Nepal to renew my Indian visa. I never intended to stay as long as I have (over a month now), and Nepal was never actually in the original plan for my trip; and certainly not nearly two weeks of hiking in the mountains. But as is often the case with long-term travel, plans change. For the most part I have loved Nepal. It is a beautiful country filled with smiling, friendly people. The food is great and the atmosphere is one of relaxation and joy. So when I was in Kathmandu renewing my Indian visa I figured why not stay a little while and take advantage of my opportunity to be in this breathtaking place? That’s when I decided to do the Annapurna Circuit.

I arrived in Pokhara blissfully unaware of what the trek would entail. I had heard a little bit about the circuit, and a friend from the US, Jayme, who had hiked it in May, told me I didn’t need a guide and I would meet loads of people along the way. My plan was to show up in Pokhara, chat with some people, pick up some gear if needed, and hopefully find a trekking partner.  However, when I arrived in Pokhara I was coming down with a cold, so I stuck around longer than planned to recover.

Pokhara isn't such a bad place to be stuck recovering from a cold

I found a nice French bakery nearby my hotel called Oju. There I met Stine, a Danish girl who had just completed the circuit. As I hung out with her that week she gave me some advice. Like Jayme, she said I would meet many people on the trail, but she had a guide. 

Having a guide on the circuit has its benefits and drawbacks. 

Benefits:

• A guide will make sure you get to where you need to be. 
• He will wake you up on time and guide you through the mountains. 
• You won't get lost with a guide (but really, the possibility of getting lost without a guide is so slim this is nearly a null point).
• Often he knows little facts about villages and the landscape that you wouldn't learn otherwise. 
• A guide will have basic First Aid on hand and can help in case of an emergency. 
• There is also the added benefit of having someone who speaks the local language who can barter and get you deals/discounts if necessary. 
• The main advantage to hiring a guide is your trek will be sorted-- you don't have to think about hardly anything.

Drawbacks:

• The guides don't always speak conversational English (or whatever your first language may be). Remember, you're going to spend two weeks, give or take, with this person. It can be awkward or uncomfortable to walk for four to ten hours with a guy who doesn't understand your jokes or stories.
• A guide can be expensive. There are many tour agencies and they all different. A guide will likely cost you about $15USD per day, but you're expected to tip on top of that. It depends on the agency if the cost of a guide also covers room and board. And sometimes, though rare, a guide can tell you things cost more than they really do and you end up paying more than you should. 
• On your trek the guide chooses the lodging. This can be beneficial because you don't have to think about it, but you're expected to eat where you stay and if the friends you made on the trail are staying in a different lodge, you can't have dinner or hang out with them.
• Unfortunately the guides sometimes like to drink. You don't spend all your time with your guide-- in the evenings the guides and porters often lounge together and occasionally get drunk. Stine said her guide's English was very poor when he was drunk, then he'd get frustrated that she didn't understand him. Another woman I met said her guide would sometimes get angry with her for no apparent reason and would almost get jealous if she spoke with other guides. 

Not all guides are bad, mind you. I met a couple on the trek who were quite funny and Stine introduced me to a friend of hers who is also a guide and he is just lovely. I'd be more than happy to have some of these men pal around with me in the Himalayas, but they aren't always so great. I would say get a guide only if you can choose one based on a recommendation or if you really don't want to think about anything. Don't get a guide because you're afraid of going alone. As long as you go during the peak season (no pun intended) and you are open to meeting people, you won't be alone. 

So carrying on... In Pokhara while I was trying to get healthy I was also trying to meet people to do this trek with. Unfortunately all the people I was meeting had just completed the circuit, were doing a different trek (Everest Base Camp, Poon Hill, Annapurna Base Camp), or were not going trekking. I decided I didn't want to hire a guide because they can be so hit or miss, but I didn't think it was smart to wander around the Himalayas on my own. I resorted to writing on the back of my map: TREKKING PARTNER(S) WANTED and I parked myself with the map at a couple of places around town. It didn't work. The only people who stopped to look at my sign were an older English couple who seemed mildly amused by my sign, but had a guide already, and a small boy and his dog.

"This is Benny!" said Andkeeth 

After a few failed attempts at finding trekking partners I decided to just get my permits and go. Surely I would meet people on the bus going to Besi Sahar, and if not, I'd meet some people at that first guest house in Bhulebhule.

To do any trekking in Nepal you need permits. For the Annapurna Circuit you need the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) permit and the Trekker's Information Management System (TIMS) card. If you have a guide he will take care of the appropriate permits. If you don't have a guide, you need to get these permits yourself. There are checkpoints along the way and if you don't have the proper documents, you will be charged double.

I got my permits in Pokhara and it was so simple. I assume it would be just as easy in Kathmandu. One of the reasons I like Nepal so much is honestly because tourism is its number one industry, so it is very organized when it comes to things like this. In Pokhara you can get both permits at the Nepal Tourism Board. The office is located at the south side of Lakeside, about thirty minutes walking from central Lakeside. Ask any local for directions. You will need a total of four passport photos (two for the ACAP and two for the TIMS) and your passport. Actually, a photocopy of your passport and Nepal visa are sufficient. The ACAP permit and the TIMS card cost 2,000 rupees each. The entire process of getting both permits took less than thirty minutes. Be sure to take one of the little pamphlets from the TIMS lady about the altitude of different points along the circuit. It comes in handy. Keep in mind, different treks require different permits; this post refers to the Annapurna Circuit only.

Gotta get your permits!

When getting my permits I met a couple of sweet Australian girls. They were going trekking earlier than I was ready, but I learned from them that nearly everyone going to the Annapurna Circuit from Pokhara catches the bus to Besi Sahar at the tourist bus park. It was reassuring to hear that there would be a busload of potential trekking partners.

From speaking with Stine and reading her Lonely Planet I learned that I would need a little bit of gear for the trek. Because Nepal was never part of my plan, I mailed all my cold weather clothing ahead to my friend in Spain. I was kicking myself now. Still, I managed to get everything I needed for less than $50USD. I probably could have gotten a better deal if I shopped around a bit, but when it's nearly 80 degrees outside who can be bothered going from store to store in search of inexpensive hats and mittens? Yuck, not me. I would much rather be spending my time by the lake.

SPOILER: I made it to the summit. I'm wearing almost all my clothing in this photo

I've compiled a list of what I found necessary for the trek. If I did the circuit again (which ain't gonna happen) I would pack another pair of socks and better sandals. Oh, and more bandages. There will be shops in towns along the way where you can get many things, but sometimes they're expensive and they don't have everything.

Packing List for the Annapurna Circuit:*Optional items in italics

• Comfortable hiking boots or runners 

• Three T-shirts (two for hiking, one for nighttime)

• One pair of shorts/lightweight trousers

• One jumper/hoodie/fleece jacket (nights get cool)

• One rain jacket/waterproof poncho

• One warm coat 

• One long-sleeve thermal top

• One pair thermal leggings/tights

• Three to four pairs of socks

• Three pairs of underwear (you'll do laundry)

• Two bras (one sports bra, one regular... optional for men)

• Stocking cap

• Gloves/mittens

• Sandals for the evenings (not thongs, you'll want to wear socks)

• Sleeping bag (you can hire this in Kathmandu or Pokhara for about 50-70 rupees/day)

• Towel (one of those small super absorbent kinds is best)

• Waterproof rucksack cover

• Water bottle (I just reused a plastic bottle)

• Aquatabs/water purification tablets

• Shampoo (shampoo can be used as body wash, but not vice versa)

• Chap stick

• Toothbrush and paste

• Headlamp

• Camera (duh)

• First Aid kit (bandages, pain killers, tweezers, etc.)

• *NOTE* Make sure your kit includes iodine/antiseptic because the shops do not sell this.

• Map (optional if you have a guide)

• TIMS and ACAP permits

• Passport/photo copy of passport

• Cash for entirety of trek (budget approximately $20USD/day plus some for emergencies)

• Credit card (in case of emergency helicopter evactuation)

• Insurance card/information

• Toilet paper

• Diamox (altitude sickness medication)

• Waterproof pants

• Hiking stick (I ended up using mine for a crutch at the end)

• Sunscreen (optional for me, essential for others)

• Sunglasses

• Sun hat

• Umbrella (may seem silly to hike with an umbrella, but it actually works quite well)

• Pocket knife

• Deck of cards

• Book

• Snacks (optional because you can buy them along the route)

• Water bottle holder (yeah, a bit dorky, but it's super handy)

I think that's about it. It will probably rain on your trek for at least one day, so best be prepared. My shoes did get pretty wet two days, but luckily the fires at the guest houses those nights were warm enough to dry them by morning. Most, if not all, guest houses in Pokhara and Kathmandu allow you to leave extra belongings with them during your trek. 

Mark purchased his stocking cap in a village on the way
Lookin' good, Mark

The Australian girls I met at the Tourism Board office and Stine all told me that the bus I needed to catch to Besi Sahar to begin the trek left from the Pokhara tourist bus park at 6:30AM. I purchased my ticket the night before via my guest house for 400 rupees.

Day 1: Pokhara to Besi Sahar to Ngadi
Total walking time: ~4 hours

So, with my rucksack packed, at 6:00AM I set off to find a taxi to the tourist bus park. Believe me, the irony of taking a taxi at the beginning of two weeks of walking does not escape me, but I didn't know where the bus station was located. The cab I caught already had two passengers in it. That's how I met Mark and Milena, the Australian couple with whom I spent the next ten days.

The bus to Besi Sahar took about four hours. Mark and Milena were seated behind me, but unfortunately it made me feel a bit nauseous to turn around and chat with them. They, however, did not feel carsick, so they spent most of the ride chatting with Janina and Kevin, the Swiss couple seated behind them. We arrived in Besi Sahar just in time for lunch. There I met Philip and Judith, a German couple. After lunch the seven of us showed our TIMS cards at the first police check post and set off towards Bhulebhule. Many people opt to take a jeep to Bhulebhule because you're really just following the road, but it was only noon and we were itching to get started and it was a sunny day, so we walked. That's when I got my first blister.

This might sound gross, but I thought about taking photos of my feet each night because I knew they would be in bad shape by the end. However I wasn't prepared for how bad they got, so it's probably good (for your, the reader's, sake). The runners I brought were fairly broken in already; I just have always gotten blisters no matter what kind of shoes I wear. I think it's because of how I walk-- my legs are turned inward causing me to walk funny and wear out my shoes differently than most people. I think I create pressure points in places for which the shoes were not designed.

We planned on stopping in Bhulebhule, but continued on to Ngadi because we weren't yet ready to retire for the day. We were among some of the first trekkers to arrive in Ngadi and the guest house owners were eager to meet us. One man offered us free rooms if we ate dinner and breakfast there. We would soon learn that this is the norm, but it was quite appealing from the get-go. The atmosphere was nice with a garden and a view, but Mark and Kevin went to another guest house to compare deals. We decided to stay at the first guest house if we got a complimentary welcome coffee or tea. Because there were seven of us we had the bargaining power and they obliged-- as long as it was only black coffee or tea.

View from our first guest house on the circuit

Because we were trekking right in the middle of the Dashain festival-- Nepal's biggest holiday-- there was plenty of activity going on in the villages. After dinner about a dozen children and a middle-aged woman asked us if they could dance for us. Of course we said yes. It was beautiful. The kids sang a traditional Nepali song, one boy beat a drum, and the woman danced. It was a simple dance and it was clear she was just letting the music move her. Later some of the kids started dancing and even dragged us "on stage" (the grass in front of everyone) with them. Then they asked us for money. At least they weren't too put out when we told them "no."

My dance partner in Ngadi

We put in order for breakfast the night before. Even though most of the time (most of the time... all of the time...) the food is not ready at the hour requested, it's a hugely helpful to order breakfast before bed. It just makes everything so much simpler in the morning. I always liked having a big meal to start out the day and keep me going. Porridge is a good choice along with some chapati or other bread. 

Day 2: Ngadi to Ghermu
Total walking time: ~4.5 hours (took a lot of breaks)

We got our bill sorted in the morning and set off for the day. Although the goal was to leave earlier, we hit the road at about 8:00. The plan was to go to Jagat, but Mark and Milena were sick (they were still recovering from their recent time in India), and Judith was getting a cold, so we were moving kind of slow and ended up spending the evening in Ghermu. When negotiating our price for the rooms in Ghermu the man at the guesthouse asked what we paid the previous evening. We said "nothing." He said he couldn't give us that deal, but offered us the rooms for 100 rupees each (practically nothing) and gave us the complimentary welcome tea (black).

The first couple days of the trek we were ambushed by children asking for sweets and pens for school. Later the kids quit asking for writing utensils, but continued to crave "lollies." Even though they aren't asking for money trekkers are advised not to give in to the begging. I don't know what it would hurt except that it teaches the children they can survive by begging for handouts. Luckily none of the children seemed too sad when we told them we didn't have anything for them.

The Nepali kids are cute as little buttons, though...

Day 3: Ghermu to Tal
Total walking time: ~4 hours

From Ghermu we made our way to Tal. Judith was feeling worse in the morning, so she and Philip stayed behind to rest an extra day. We hoped to meet up with them again later, but unfortunately did not. When we were departing the owner of the guesthouse gave us a recommendation of a place to stay in Tal.

Mark and Milena were feeling much better, the weather was still nice and warm, and we saw some beautiful scenery. In Tal we found the recommendation from our friend in Ghermu. It was a lovely guesthouse with a nice garden and even hot showers! Mark and Kevin played hackey sack with a soccer ball while Milena, Janina, and I drank our free welcome tea. The evening became cool, but just long pants and a light jumper were enough. We didn't know it at the time, but Tal would be the last evening we could spend outside without freezing or getting soaked.

There are many gorgeous waterfalls on the circuit

Day 4: Tal to Thanchowk
Total walking time: ~6 hours

From Tal we wanted to go to Chame. We would be walking for about six hours and we would increase our altitude by over 1,000 meters. We were thankful that everyone was healthy again because this was going to be one of the longest days. When I put on my shoes before leaving Tal I could tell there would be a problem. By this point I had matching blisters on each of my heels (one of which had popped on its own) as well as a few on my toes. The pressure from my shoes was painful, but what could I do? I covered the blisters with Band-Aids and pushed through. The pain nearly went away after ten or fifteen minutes of walking. Unfortunately, by the time we stopped for lunch in Danaqyu the Band-Aid wasn't enough. My shoe had rubbed the Band-Aid off of the blister and now the sore was too big for it to cover. I asked the nice man at the restaurant if he had a bandage and he fixed me up with some iodine and gauze. The gauze proved essential in the days to come.

Sometime shortly after lunch we learned that our map was mistaken. We expected Tal to Chame to be a six to seven hour day, but the actual time to walk that route is about eight to ten hours. That would put us in Chame around 5:30PM if everything went as planned. Although Mark and Milena were much better than they had been, it would have been silly to push too far. My feet were hurting, too. On the outskirts of Thanchowk we were getting weary and felt a couple raindrops, so we decided to just stay there. It was a wise decision to stop in Thanchowk because within an hour or so it started pissing down rain. None of us were in the mood to walk in that kind of weather after already walking for more than six hours.

The long day walking wasn't all bad. Got a good selfie with a donkey!

Thanchowk was our first really cold night. We were the only guests at the tea house and we stayed huddled in the dining room  playing games, despite there not being a fire. Janina and Kevin introduced us to game called Mad from the old Magaizine. It's like Uno, but better. We played many rounds of Mad before going to bed. The rain didn't let up all night.

Day 5: Thanchowk to Chame
Total walking time: ~2 hours

Kevin heard that the it was only predicted to rain five millimeters, but that happened pretty quickly and it didn't stop. In the morning we decided to wait it out a bit and if by noon it still hadn't quit, we would just suck it up and go at least to Chame. Well, when noon came it was still raining pretty heavily and we watched plenty of other trekkers walking by, so we just protected ourselves from the elements as best we could, put our heads down, and walked the two hours to Chame.

In Chame we circled around a wood stove and dried our clothes and shoes. By bed time we all had mild headaches. We were a bit worried it was altitude sickness, but I think it was a combination from slight dehydration and the fact that the dining room was filled with smoke. It is recommended to drink three to four litres of water a day. That amount was easy to drink when it was hot and we were sweaty, but when it's cold and raining it is easy to forget. The next day we all forced ourselves to drink more and we felt better. Our shoes were dry by morning, for which I was thankful because the last thing I wanted to do with my blisters was aggravate them with wet shoes.

Day 6: Chame to Lower Pisang
Total walking time: ~4-5 hours

From Chame we walked to Lower Pisang, mostly in the rain. We had our choice between Upper Pisang and Lower Pisang. Upper Pisang has prettier vistas, but Lower Pisang is a little bit easier to get to. Because it was poor weather we opted for Lower Pisang.

Even though it was foggy and we couldn't see much, what we could see was colorful

We were among the first guests to arrive in Lower Pisang which meant we got the prime seats by the fire and the optimal spots on the clothesline. This guesthouse was lovely. I think Lower Pisang was Milena's favorite town. The food was wonderful and the dining room was nice and toasty. In fact, when a large Dutch group came (about ten tourists and their guides and porters), the room was roasting and almost too hot. Almost. I will always choose too hot over too cold.

In Lower Pisang I went to a shop in search of gauze and iodine. I was unsuccessful. The woman kept trying to sell me an ACE bandage, like what I would use to wrap a twisted ankle. Because she didn't seem to understand what I was looking for I showed her my foot, which was in pretty bad shape at this point. She gasped. Then she pulled out her own personal First Aid kit, poured some iodine on my wound, used a bit of my remaining gauze and wrapped it up with the bandage. Then she told me to go see the doctor when I got to Manang (Manang, with a population of probably about one hundred is considered the big city in the Annapurnas). The bandage made my foot look worse than it was, but it made it feel much better.

Day 7: Lower Pisang to Manang
Total walking time: ~4.5 hours

It had pretty much stopped raining by the morning and the skies even cleared up some, so the walk to Manang wasn't so bad weather-wise. Otherwise it was my worst day of the trek (so far). My blisters were no longer blisters, but rather angry red open sores. Every step put a sharp pressure on the wounds.After twenty minutes of walking the pain dulled some, but it was still apparent. If that wasn't bad enough, my shin splints started acting up as well. I feel like an old woman referring to old injuries, but that's the truth. Ten years ago I got some horrible shin splints running track. They've healed, but not completely. Now any time I put too much pressure on my legs (like touring city for hours in rubbish shoes, or walking for hours a day, for a weeks straight), the aches come back. It feels like my shins are bruised and with each step it feels like someone is pushing on those bruises. Awesome, right? Milena noticed the night before that my ankles were swollen, too. I don't know if it was from the shin splints, from the altitude, or from another problem all together; I just knew that about forty-five minutes outside of Manang when everyone else went into a shop to buy some yak cheese I stood outside and cried for the first time on the trek. Cried from pain. This wouldn't be the last time.

Despite the pain I was still able to appreciate the view

In Manang nearly everyone stops for two nights to acclimatize. If you don't stop in Manang, you'll want to stop somewhere nearby (but Manang is the best place because it's so big and has got so many nice bakeries). Manang is only about 300 meters higher than Lower Pisang, but after Manang the altitude increases quickly, so you'll want to give your body time to get used to it. Besides, at 3,540 meters, Manang is still pretty high. I went to the hospital/clinic in Manang, but a consultation cost $40USD. I knew there was nothing a doctor could do except bandage up my feet and tell me to rest, so I opted not to go. I just bought some gauze and tape and tried to keep my feet clean.

The doctor in Manang gives a daily lecture on altitude. I recommend going. We learned that for our bodies to acclimatize our kidneys needed to process some stuff, which was why we were all urinating so much. (Go to the lecture. The doctor explains the process much more eloquently than I can.) Seriously, though, after Pisang we all noticed we were having to pee so much more. Kevin and Mark were stepping into the bushes three times an hour. We also learned at the lecture that as a result from the new altitude, we were likely to have problems sleeping because our breathing is different and we actually even stop sometimes. The doctor told us about Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), High-Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE), and High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and what to do if we experience the signs. AMS can be treated, but HACE and HAPE are very serious and sometimes fatal. 

You'll likely learn about the symptoms before your trek, but just in case:

AMS:

• Headache

• Loss of appetite

• Nausea

• Vomiting

• Tiredness

• Dizziness

• Disturbed sleep

Treatment- stay at height for 1-3 days or descend; take Diamox (250mg every 12 hours)

HACE:

• Severe headache

• Loss of balance/coordination

• Staggering (like drunk)

• Irrational behavior

• Confusion

• Coma

• Death (sometimes within a few hours)

Treatment- descend immediately at least 1,000 meters by whatever means necessary (donkey, motorbike, porter) with someone else; give oxygen, Gamow bag, keep patient warm, Diamox

HAPE:

• Breathless (even at rest)

• Dry cough/pink or rusty spit

• Blue lips/nails

• Very tired

• Low fever

• Gurgling breath

• Drowsy

• Coma

• Death

Treatment- descend immediately at least 1,000 meters by whatever means necessary (donkey, motorbike, porter) with someone else; give oxygen, Gamow bag, keep patient warm, Diamox, nifedipine

After the lecture we went to the cinema! There are two projection rooms in Manang and they play films all day long. For just 250 rupees you can see a movie and get popcorn and tea! The films played are Seven Years in Tibet (that's the one we watched), Into Thin Air, Into the Wild, and Slumdog Millionaire. We all saw Seven Years in Tibet, but I came late and went to the wrong room, so I watched it alone. Wah wah. No matter. I still enjoyed the movie.

Day 8: Manang

Like I said, we stayed two nights in Manang to acclimatize. Mark, Milena, Janina, and Kevin went for a day hike to the Ice Lake on our day in Manang, but I needed a rest day. I'm glad I didn't go because Milena started feeling a touch of AMS and then Janina and Kevin took a wrong turn coming back and nearly got lost. Actually I think they did get lost for a bit, but luckily they made it back OK. They were pretty scared, though. While they were all out hiking and being active I sampled some cake from one of the many bakeries in Manang, read my book, and rested.

Day 9: Manang to Yak Kharka
Total walking time: ~3.5 hours

The view made the weather bearable

Thank God my legs were feeling better when we started walking to Yak Kharka. My blisters weren't much better, but at least in the big city of Manang I was able so stock up on some gauze. The walk to Yak Kharka was fairly uneventful. It was getting noticeably cold earlier in the day, though. We arrived at lunch time and it was freezing! We stayed at the first guesthouse we came across because we thought there were only two in Yak Kharka (we were mistaken-- that's Thorang Phedi), and the man seemed friendly.

We had lunch and afterwards when it was so cold already in the dining room we asked if we could start a fire. The man said it would be 300 rupees if we wanted a fire before 5:00PM. To keep warm we wandered fifteen minutes over to the main part of the village. There we had a cup of tea, then came back to our lodging right at 5:00 for a nice fire. We would have liked to continue walking, but with the high altitudes it's best not to ascend too much. The rule is after a certain elevation (I think 3,000 or 4,000 meters), don't ascend more than 300-500 meters per day. Manang is at an altitude of 3,540 meters and Yak Kharka is 4,050 meters. We had a delicious dinner, played some games, and went to bed shivering.

Day 10: Yak Kharka to Thorang Phedi
Total walking time: ~3.5 hours

A yak on our way out of Yak Kharka. How appropriate.

This walk wasn't so bad. I think part of it was mental because I just wanted to be done with the trek and I knew Thorang Phedi was one of the last hurdles. It started snowing on the way to Thorang Phedi and that only motivated me further-- I hate the snow. I simply put my head down and trekked. It was a fairly steep incline, but my days (years) of running cross country came back to me and I focused solely on the ground immediately before me until I reached the top of each hill. I must have been going pretty fast because I was leading our little pack and when I stopped at the crest of one hill Kevin caught up to me and said, "Rock and roll, Maggie!" We made decent time and arrived to Thorang Phedi at about lunch time. It was a good thing, too, because there were only two guesthouses and they fill up quickly. We got a room, but if the rooms were full we would have just slept in the dining room.

We had a lot of time to kill before it was early enough to go to bed in Thorang Phedi. The place was so cold there weren't many options. We played a lot of cards and drank quite a bit of tea and hot cocoa to keep warm. We met some nice people in the dining room as we shivered to stay warm. The guest house didn't have a fireplace because A) there are not so many things to burn that high up on the mountain, and B) just a year or so ago there was a bad fire that burned down the two guest houses in Thorang Phedi. We just relied on the body heat of other trekkers in the room to heat us. Inside was bearable. Outside the weather was bitter and snowy.

I went to bed both dreading and looking forward the next day: The Pass.

Day 11: Thorang Phedi to High Camp
Total walking time: ~1.5 hours












The plan was to breakfast at about 4:30AM and leave around 5:00. We had to begin early because winds pick up and are quite strong at the peak by 9:30AM. I shared a room with Kevin and Janina that evening. They went to breakfast while I coaxed my shoes onto my battered, bloody, infected feet (yeah). A note-- I had been treating my blisters as best I could, though there was only so much I could do. I changed the bandages often and kept my feet clean and dry, but what I needed was what I couldn't afford: rest. I took some (strong) painkillers and forced my feet into my shoes; wincing and fighting back tears as I did it. As I walked towards the door to join my friends for breakfast I collapsed. The pain was so great that I could not even walk across the bedroom. This was not a good sign for the nine hour day to come. I sat on Kevin's bed and wept. I had reached the point of essentially no return. What was I going to do? To turn back now would not only be failure, but also a great cost (in time and money) and a huge hassle. I knew at the very least that I could not go on with my friends right now. I took off my shoes and just wore them as slippers and went to greet my friends.


When I sat down next to Mark he said sympathetically, "How are you feeling?" I lost it then. From pain, frustration, and exhaustion I broke down and said to him, "I can't walk." My friends asked what I wanted to do and I said I didn't know; they should probably go on without me. Milena suggested I hire a donkey to take me over the pass. To which I replied, through tears, "I don't want to take a f**king donkey!" Mark had a valid point when he said, "You don't really have a choice, mate. You can't even walk into the hall. How are you going to cross the pass?" A wacky American we had met the night before offered to send some healing energy to my injuries, but I'm ashamed to say I sent him one of Maggie's famous dirty looks. I decided to wait some time-- at least until the sun rose-- and then go over my options. I told my friends to go on ahead. They felt bad about abandoning me, but there really wasn't much else they could do. I promised to contact them as soon as I could, wished them all safe travels, and hugged them each goodbye. I cried when they left. If you're counting, this is three times I've cried now before sunrise.

After my friends left the wacky American said to me, "You didn't seem too interested in it before, but I'm still willing to send perform some of my healing energy on your feet." I didn't believe the reiki stuff could work on such blatant physical injuries, but I had nothing to lose. Also, I felt bad for snapping at the poor guy just a few minutes earlier. I calmed down some as he held my feet in his hands, but I still didn't really know what to do. I figured I should probably just talk to the people who ran the guest house and maybe they could help me.

The American finished his little energy session (I felt no different) and I hobbled to the kitchen to get some water. The cooks there sent me outside to fill my bottle. Remember, I can't walk properly. I went outside to try and find the hose they were talking about-- or at least I think that's what they were telling me to do-- and I couldn't find it. I asked some Kiwis if they new where the water out here was and they didn't. I started crying again because I was just so frustrated. With myself, with the situation, with the weather, with everything. I told them briefly of my dilemma and they took pity on me. The gal said, "I don't know, horses are cool. It could be fun to ride a horse over the pass." Then they offered to fill my water bottle and they even gave me some iodine to disinfect my feet.

I re-bandaged my feet, packed my bag, and went to the dining hall to talk to the people at the guest house. It was past 7:00 and the sun was up. I assumed I was the last one left. When I staggered into the dining hall I met Aisling, Kaisa, and Ken. They had arrived the day before, but were taking the trek easy and decided to stay a little longer at Thorang Phedi because it was too cold. I don't recall exactly what Ken said to me, but I think it was as innocent as, "Hello, how are you?" Of course I burst into tears. What a first impression! And if you're keeping track, that was five (yeah, 1-2-3-4-5, times I cried before 9:00AM this day). Being English Ken told me to sit down and have a cup of tea. I did.

The trio was planning on hiking to High Camp, an hour and a half away from Thorang Phedi and about three hours from the pass. Kaisa and Aisling planned to return to Thorang Phedi for the night, but Ken wanted to stay at High Camp. He suggested I try to walk that far and maybe in the morning I would feel a little better. I decided to try. If I wasn't able, I could always get a horse.

We waited for the sun to come up a little bit and left in the afternoon. While sipping more tea and hanging out in the dining hall I met Holly, an Englishwoman who was on her way to High Camp and just stopped in Thorang Phedi for lunch/breakfast. Up until about thirty minutes before we left I still wasn't sure if I could make it, but I laced up my runners and forced myself to walk to the bathroom. A combination of painkillers, stubbornness, and not being the middle of the night propelled me forward. Using my walking stick more as a crutch than anything else I made it to High Camp. I surprised myself at my "success".

Conquering Thorang Phedi. On my way to High Camp

At High Camp I shared a room with Holly and hung out with my new friends in the dining hall. We played some cards and chatted with each other until it was time for bed. I missed my trekking partners, but I was glad to have met some nice people with whom to pass the time.



 Day 12: High Camp to Muktinath
Total walking time: ~3.5 hours*
*most people should take about 6-8 hours

Day 13: Muktinath to Jomsom

Day 14: Jomsom to Pokhara

What happens after Yak Kharka? 

How did I cut my walking time nearly in half on Day 12? 

What happens next?! 

To be continued...